homer's school

As has been pointed out by a few people already, Homers school is not the Acropolis so those seeking an ancient site with a wow factor are probably going to be a bit disappointed. That said, this is a uniquely important Ithacan site in gloriously scenic surroundings and for those that have the knowledge to appreciate it the site is fascinating and quietly awe inspiring. So, it follows that in order to get the most out of visiting the Homers School you can either spend a couple of years studying the subject at hand so you know what you are looking at or go with someone who has!We did the latter so we were able to understand what we were standing on or looking at without a classics degree. As a bonus the person we chose to go with told us so much more and put not just the site and story into context but helped increase our appreciation of the setting as well!Basically we were told by a number of people that we would enjoy the Homers School walk more if we went with Katrina Parsey who runs Walks and Words and ....we did!Neither I or my wife is a Homer, Iliad, Ulysses or Odyssey student [never read them or knew much about the story at all to be honest] but it really does / did not matter as our walk to Homers school was fun not just informative. We were not going to go to start with but we were lucky enough to meet Katrina briefly the Sunday before our walk and talked to her over Frappes at Dodonis in Frikes. She was so nice we decided that [as we wanted to see the sight in any case] it would be far better to do a walk with her....and it was!Homers School is well worth seeing and the route she takes makes it a lovely walk of about three hours duration. You truly do need her knowledge to help you understand the site properly and in order to get the most from the experience. You could go on your own, but not only will you get so much more from the site and surroundings with Katrina but it is arguably much safer as well. This is not a site with lots of fences and health and safety signage. More of an archaeological work in progress actually.The accessibility and lack of commercialism [a bit like Ithaca itself] is very much part of the sites charm.It’s not just Homers school that you will learn about. On the walk there and back Katrina gives you a special insight into the flora and fauna as well as general history [ancient and recent] of the area. All from the perspective of someone who has lived there for 17 years and clearly still considers her surroundings to be a privilege.Katrina is natural and engaging and has a good sense of humour. Her acting and performance background also means that she has the tools to communicate her passion both for the island and the subject under discussion. Katrina clearly loves her adopted island home and enjoys showing it off. It was like taking a trip with a particularly well informed gregarious friend certainly not a would be professor or teacher dryly regurgitating facts. This is much more of a walking conversation than a lecture. Katrina was happy to talk about all sorts and everything not just things relating to Homer. Anything from, what makes the holes in the trunks of the olive trees to the rather soulless [IMO], remodelling of the Old Kalamos Hotel that once played host to such as Sophie Loren and Winston Churchill although not I think at the same time!Walk over [I would suggest you take some decent walking shoes or even boots if you have got them] we ended up at a nearby Kafenion at [I think] Ag Sarangas.This was a small typical Greek hang out which is a part shop / bar / cafe all at the same time and exists for the villagers and locals not tourists. Run by one of the north of the islands best known characters Nikos Douglas [everyone seems to know him]this place had great ‘home made’ local wine and cold beers which we enjoyed in good company while sitting outside and watching a small amount of local traffic try to negotiate the hairpin bend a few meters up the road. This place is a great and authentic experience. Friendly locals who make you feel like an honorary part of the community for an hour or two. A brilliant place to visit after walking around Homers School and one we would not have discovered without Katrina. Perfect before heading into Frikes for dinner at Remontzo or, as we did on this occasion, further afield to Mythos in Kioni.You can get in touch with Katrina at http://www.wordsandwalks.com/

Just do it, but do not expect a highlight of your vacation.If you are interested in history, it is okay.

We went on an evening guided walk and clambered over the site and learned about its history and the archaeological digs. Couldn't help feeling that this was a missed opportunity and could be a major attraction with a bit of investment and if the finds from the site were on display there.

Charming walk up to the ruins.The most amazing 360 degree views. Wonderfully ancient moss covered olive trees with huge girths indicating their advanced age. It is difficult to get a sense of what the original school was like because most of the original stones have been used for adjacent farm buildings (now also in ruins). There is a charming 18th century church (ruin) sitting in the middle of the site. If it had been cooler we would have liked to walk up the path to Exogi.

We followed signs for Homer's School archaeological site from Stavros. After reaching a sign indicating to walk the remainder of the way we left the car and continued along a dirt track for roughly 30 minutes to reach the site (an interesting walk, but definitely take water and sensible shoes!). At first we walked straight passed the site failing to noticing it, so as you can imagine, there isn't that much to see. Without any information boards or maps given it was difficult to know exactly what we were looking at. The short walk through the Greek countryside was peaceful and had some lovely views, but all in all, wouldn't recommend if not accompanied by a tour guide.

Its as if this beautiful place is asleep, only the evocative ruins give a clue to what was here 3000 ago. Lack of funding means that only parts of it have been revealed but its a magical feeling to walk in the footsteps of the ancients Greeks with the smell of wild sage, the chirp of crickets and the clink of goat bells around you. Katarina, assistant to the archeologist in charge of recent excavations, explained how the Cyclopean blocks date these ruins to the Mycennean period and various findings firm beliefs that it was the site of Ulysses' palace. A very inspiring visit.

We went to Homers School with a guide from Island Walks. She explained what the ruins were and gave background information. It's an interesting trip but don't expect big ruins or ancient temples. It is not the Acropolis! :-)

This was weird. Were expecting a trip into myth and found just some scattered ruins… in ruins. The place oozes beauty and history, but it definitely is neglected to say the least. What a shame.

Amazed by the landscape,thrilled by the mythology that proves the truth once more ...But,once again disappointed from the state analgesia...It is interesting for someone who knows the detailed descriptions of Homer, to show them the space and feel chills when you discover that stand on the place where the ULYSSES and Penelope lived. ....!!!Only analgesia and the indifference of the state will remain a black spot where not leave nor the locals to protect existing findings! With the wish to give a speedy solution to all this new Odyssey, would really like to find myself again in this world monument of archaeological and historical interest....)

If this was in the UK there would have been areas roped off and you would not have been able to explore, with rough planks of wood covering holes and the underground well that is not marked and which could have been quite dangerous, however it was great to be able to explore and imagine how this would have looked in Homers time. Take care with little ones!