StevieH61
did the 2-day MalalKwalelo horse ride in April 2010, with some Chilean friends, some of whom know the area quite well. For me, this was a wonderful trip through pristine Andean scenery, and I would highly recommend it to anyone with a sense of adventure who wants to something off the beaten track in Chile.The trip starts in Ralco, a small mountain town about 1 hours bus ride from Los Angeles. From Ralco we travelled by car over dirt roads through beautiful mountains, for 90 minutes. From Ralco on we are in the territory of the Pewenche people, and indigenous tribe related to the Mapuche, who are one of the last bastions of pre-colonial culture in Chile. Don’t expect people dressed in loin cloths and feathers. In some ways the Pewenche are assimilated to modern life – they have cars, televisions, and jeans. But they still speak their traditional language (Chedungun) among themselves, and follow many of their traditional ways, such as the collection pine nuts of the giant Auracaria pine trees , for them a sacred tree from where they take their name (Che = People of the Pehuen = Auracaria). As in many parts of the Andes, the Pewenche have a mythical connection with the mighty scenery that surrounds them, and they try and manage their sheep, cattle and goat herds in tune with the rhythm and cycles of nature and the seasons. This became clear as we set off with our Pewenche guide, riding through the lush native woodlands. We passed through very healthy stands of Southern Beech (nothofagus), which come in very many different kinds, and at this time of year, a rich variety of autumn colours from green to russet to gold. The upper slopes and gulleys were thickly wooded by nurre bushes, which also adopt a rich palette of red and gold at this time of year. On the far hill crests were the majestic araucaria pines, some 50m high and many centuries old. That night we would dine on the rich pine nuts, boiled over the open fire.The ride took us from the small settlement of Butalelbun - basically a collection of tin-roof homesteads in a broad valley with a school and health post - up to the summer pastures of Malalkawello, which means ‘horse corral’ in Pehuenche, and according to Juan Domingo, our guide, is used to describe these lush pastures surrounded by the steep Andes since it acts like a giant enclosure for livestock over summer. But before we could reach the pastures we had to climb almost straight up a cliff on horseback, along a trail I would never have thought possible to walk on foot, let alone on a horse! Our guide told us from the start ‘trust your horse’ and this was good advice. I have travelled the Andes’ worst mountain roads by car and bus, and I am reasonably comfortable on horseback (but by no means an experienced rider) but these paths were heart-pounding steep, with knife-edge ridges and sheer drops hundreds of feet to the valley below. To compensate the scenery was stunning and I could have stepped into the Big Country of a John Ford western, with rugged rocks and evergreens bushes, clear streams and soaring mountain peaks on all sides.None of my colleagues, and of course not the guide, seemed in the least bit bothered by the steep ascent, even as horse hoofs slipped and clattered on rocky ledges spitting stones into the void below. All I could do was sit tight and let the reins as loose as possible to let my horse, Chincolito, find his way up, several times springing like a mountain goat from ledge to ledge. Clearly any attempt to actively ride the horse in any way could only distract him, with a likely negative outcome.So I did the only sensible thing; nothing. Except occassionaly close my eyes and wish for a parachute.At the top we reached a small meadow and dismounted and at last I could relax and enjoy the view below.The rest of the day’s ride was a lot easier, though there were still some steep inclines, after a lunch stop we set off up above the tree line to the Andean steppe, the higher paramo with pampas grass. We rode right to the base of the mountain ridge that seperates Chile from Argentina, and after a 200 metre climb on foot (quite easy path) reached the snow line...and there we were, with one foot in each country straddling the border! This was amazing, as were the views down into Argentina and to the snow caps that seperate the two countries to the north and south. Condors floated overhead - we counted around 6 just at this spot.We headed back down the valley to the tree line and camped in a small shepherds hut, called a 'ruca' by the Pewenches. This is made from slabs of wood rough-hewn and interlocked to provide a waterproof roof, there were several very ancient ones in the area that survived the winter snows for many years. Juan told us that soon the last of the cattle and horses would be moved down to the lower valley, since this was and of April and within a few weeks the valley would be under one metre of snow. We were very lucky with the weather, even at the snowline the sun was warm, and even though it chillled down that night I slept outside, with saddle blankets for a mattress, and watched the stars. Juan warned me to stay alert for pumas (mountain lions) that frequent the area, though rarely attack humans. I think he thought I was a bit 'huay huay lonco' to be sleeping outside, but the stars were bright and beautiful...and no lions came.The next day we rode slowly back down, the descent to the lower valley via the same cliff path was also a real heart-stopper, but once again the horse proved their worth and never put a foot wrong. One of the fascinations of the trip for me was to witness the remarkable bonding between the Pewenche people and their animals. The treated the horse with great calmness, care and respect, and in return the horse were solid and dependable, and did not seem to have any bad habits. This connection with nature was also evident in the way the Pewenche react with their environment. I have travelled in much of the Andes and in other places I have witnessed much degradation of the land; overgrazing, deforestation and replacement of native species with commercial stands of imported pines and gum trees that wipe out local flora. But here in the upper Bio Bio, I was awed to see the Andes with good forest cover, even to the high peaks, and the land did not seem stressed. Where else can you drink water straight from the streams? A beautiful site typical of this area is are the mighty araucaria trees that stand on the high ridges. Back in the village of Butalelbun we waited for our ride back to Ralco, and passed the time checking out the rawhide lassos which the Pewenche use to muster cattle, and I got a chance to look more carefully at the saddlery they use; thick woolen saddle blankets, topped by a simple lightweight steel and wood saddle frame, topped by a thick sheepskin (or goatskin) rug, where the rider sits comfortably. I would have loved more time in the area, there was alot more to see and do, but my short holiday time had run out.For me, this was one on the most memorable and enjoyable trips for a long time, and I would recommend it to anyone with a lovel of the wilderness. Youi need to feel confident on a horse, but there is no difficult technical riding. Just remember - relax, enjoy and trust your horse!
